Day 2: History, Artistry, and Mosquito avoidance

We were joined this day by an historian, giving us the political context for the country and its evolution / revolution. I actually remember some of this from my college days-- in the seventies, when US soldiers blasted heavy metal at Somoza to get him to leave his compound. Of course, the subtleties and the effects of the US involvement were not as apparent to me then. I was fascinated -- and somewhat horrified -- learning how much we meddled in this country's workings.

We spent the afternoon -- an extremely hot and humid afternoon, I might add - in the country side near Masaya. We visited two artisans who have been funded by a Jesuit micro-lending project. This we seem to have gotten right. The first, a man and his son who make beautiful jewelry and bowls from wood, was gracious and welcoming to us. His wood shop and display building were funded by a small loan. He is an entrepreneur, handing out business cards with his web shop on them. The second, a potter, who makes absolutely gorgeous vases, bowls, and other clay works, used his $1000 to buy a pottery wheel and kiln. He had dressed up for us, and was clearly proud of the work he sells. The young potter made a bottle for us and painted another while we watched. He's switched from pre-Columbian art to nature scenes "because they sell better, and I enjoy them."

The people of Nicaragua have been kind and open to us. They are apparently quite able to separate the people of the US from the politics, and we are the benefactors of that positive distortion. Still, driving across this countryside, where the average weekly salary is little more than $100, one is sometimes overtaken by the staggering effects of poverty. And I am reminded, once again, about how our fortunes are so completely based on an accident of nature.

To the hotel this evening, where I quickly showered off the layers of sunscreen, sweat, and bug spray. We are nearly compulsively avoiding mosquitoes, having heard tales of both malaria and Dengue fever. Ahhh, the sweet perfume of DEET as I drift off to sleep...